Thrift shopping deserves every ounce of its current internet buzz: It’s better for the environment—and for your checking account. But when you’re shopping for secondhand workout clothes, the germ expert SELF consulted says it pays to be a little more discerning with those pre-loved yoga and running fits. Ahead, our experts break down a six-step process for evaluating vintage items before you haul them home.
Check the tags
So you’ve located the perfect second-chance windbreaker or yoga pants? Peek the tag, tailor Sarene Alsharif, CEO of Tad More Tailoring tells SELF. The type of fabric you’re dealing with can determine the longevity of the piece. Natural materials, such as cotton, merino wool, or bamboo—all of which last a long time and tend to maintain their shapes. Avoid synthetic materials like spandex or nylon, which may stretch and sag over time.
Microbiologist and immunologist Jason Tetro, tells SELF, that organic fabrics are also less likely to be germy. “Bacteria and other microbes tend to attach to more synthetic fabrics over natural ones,” he explains. “Cotton and nylon are pretty good at resisting bacterial attachment. However, acrylic and polyester tend to be havens for bacteria. Wool is in between, although it tends to have antimicrobial properties. Same with some types of bamboo,” says Tetro, author of The Germ Files.
Consider the current condition
Now, it’s time to take a close look at what’s holding the garment together. “Especially with leggings, you want to look at the stitching of the seat, crotch, and the top of the thighs—that’s where there’s the most strain on it,” says Alsharif. “So if you see stitches popping or empty spaces where there should be a stitch, that means that the stitching is coming undone there.”
Check the larger swath of plastic on the waistband or the base of the sports bra, too, she adds. “When you pull on [the elastic], is it stretching out? Is it stretching out a lot or just a little bit? Sometimes, from all of the washing, the elastic can become stiff, and it’s not going to stretch out,” explains Alsharif. Conversely, the elastic band may be too loose and saggy, so give it a good tug and check for that Goldilocks feel.
Finally, check for opacity. While you may not be able to perform the squat test in-store, Alsharif recommends pressing a palm in the fabric to check for see-throughness. This will help you avoid accidentally flashing anyone in yoga class or at the gym.
Perform a sniff test
If it smells funky on the rack, it’s not worth adding to your closet, clinical pathologist S. Wesley Long, MD tells SELF. Beyond being unpleasant, smells can indicate the presence of lingering bacteria and sweat residue, he explains.
Avoid intimate items
“I would not recommend buying used socks or undergarments for hygiene reasons,” says Dr. Long. “Socks and undergarments, for example, have direct contact with sensitive areas and may be harder to clean thoroughly, so purchasing them secondhand is not recommended.” The same goes for hats, which could contain lice.
Is Online Thrift Shopping Okay?
It just isn’t possible to perform all these checks on Poshmark, ThredUp, and Depop—so what’s an online thrifter to do? “I’ll be honest. I have a hard time buying anything used online,” says Tetro. “If it’s outerwear or something that can be used as an outer layer, I’m sure it will be fine. But if it’s going to touch your skin, I think it’s better to have the chance to do the tests.”
Dr. Long says he generally prefers to inspect something in person before buying it. “If you do buy online, make sure the seller provides clear photos and details about the item’s state. Once the clothes arrive, wash and sanitize them thoroughly before wearing them,” he says.
While some of these resellers, like TheRealReal, mandate that people wash items before selling them, there’s no guarantee of how clean the clothes really are. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t buy anything online, but it does mean you should proceed with caution and pay attention to any notes on the fabric conditions provided by resellers. For example, if leggings are described as “well-loved” or “showing signs of wear,” they may not be worth the shipping cost.
Ideally, the reseller will allow you to return the items or exchange them for store credit if they don’t meet your (now very high!) standards. And, of course, “Once the clothes arrive, wash and sanitize them thoroughly before wearing them,” says Dr. Long.
How to Wash and Dry Thrifted Athleticwear
A good thrifting wash and dry routine requires warm water, oxygen bleach, vinegar, and an air-drying rack. Here’s how to ready your fitness clothes for wear, step-by-step.
1. Neutralize Smells With Vinegar
Instead of using fabric softener or dryer sheets to mask the stink, Patric Richardson—who is known as “The Laundry Evangelist”—recommends soaking the clothes in a mixture of water and vinegar for 24 hours to get rid of any lingering smells.
A little bit of vinegar goes a long way, so just add a dash to the water and wait for it to work its magic.
2. Wash With Oxygen Bleach
Next, throw your thrifted items in the washing machine and turn the dial to warm. Add a tiny bit of laundry detergent and a sprinkle of oxygen bleach. “When you mix oxygen bleach with water, one of the things you create is hydrogen peroxide, which sterilizes everything,” says Richardson. “Your athletic builds up salt and sweat, which can cause irritation. So truth be told, this is the same process you should use to clean [athleticwear] every time.”
If bleach irritates your skin or isn’t an option for some other reason, Tetro recommends finding a detergent with non-bleach disinfectant or antimicrobial enzymes.
3. Hang Dry and Be Patient
Richardson, Alsharif, and Tetro are all big fans of hang-drying athletic wear to protect the integrity of any elastic and increase the longevity of these garments. Bonus points if you can let them bake in the sun for a while, which may also help disinfect the clothes.
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